Scotney Castle - a garden visit

August 24, 2016

What's not to love about Scotney Castle? Stories of Elizabethan smugglers, murders and priest holes combined with the oh so romantic charm of an old moated ruin at the bottom of a beautiful garden. I discovered that 'Yanks' with Richard Gere was filmed there and Margaret Thatcher rented a flat from the mid 70s, using it as a bolt hole from Westminster. Leaving the city for the English countryside as so many have done and continue to do.

The history I picked up was that in 1137 the estate was owned by Lambert de Scoteni - maybe this is where the name Scotney originates from. Later around 1378 to 1380 Roger Ashburnham is said to have built the old castle - how did the estate come into his possession I wonder? Back then it was usual to build a rectangular fortified house with round towers in each corner but it doesn't seem that this was all built; did the coffers run dry! Then the Darrell family lived at Scotney Castle for over 300 years, when smuggling was a source of income for many in the region despite everything the authorities tried to do over the years to combat it. A lot of wool seems to have exchanged hands illegally!

Today a south tower stands alongside an additional Elizabethan style wing, built in 1580, and a rebuilt three-story section, in the Inigo Jones style added in 1630. Just in this one 'ruin' there is so much architectural history. Building, altering, extending and the constantly changing needs of occupants have all contributed to creating an amazing landscape. I wonder if they had to ask for planning permission!

I don't know how long the white Wisteria has been growing over the ruin but it smelt amazing. The smell was carried on the wind making you aware of its presence before actually seeing it. For anyone who would like one in their garden it is apparently a Wisteria floribunda 'Alba'.
The garden around the ruin, the moat filled with water lilies and the Bewl River flowing peacefully by, all make for a stunning fairy tale setting.
A walk back up the hill, past azaleas and rhododendrons, and there is the 'new' castle, designed by Anthony Salvin in the Revival style and built from 1835 to 1843. The estate had been bought by the Hussey family in 1778 and Edward had the new house built using sandstone quarried from the slope below. Then he created the garden in the hole! Aptly named the Quarry Garden. Makes me think of The Eden Project, also built in a quarried hole. The rhododendron flowers were coming to an end when we visited but they must be stunning at their peak and I can see why the garden is so famous.
The Hussey family made Scotney their family home until 1970 when Christopher Hussey left it to the National Trust. Betty Hussey continued to live there until her death in 2006. I just love the drinks trolley with Dubonnet (amongst other things) by the sofa - it's as if she has just stepped out of the room.

All in all a fabulous visit despite the English weather - we had the whole gamut: sun, wind, cloud and rain. A lot of rain, luckily on the drive home!

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